Blub, blub, blub. Diving the British Virgin Islands on a Liveaboard

Most of the earth is underwater, with presumably a lot more land soon to be submerged. Which does not necessarily seem to validate that we should spend more time beneath the ocean's surface. After all, the only manmade architectural wonders to visit under the sea are shipwrecks, and we have yet to hear of an underwater restaurant opening up, let alone one that has a single Michelin star.

Nevertheless, we happily join some of Ellen’s family on a chartered boat leaving out of the US Virgin Islands for an 8 day diving adventure, sailing through the British Virgin Islands on a live-aboard catamaran together and stopping at multiple diving spots every day.

Ellen is an almost life-long diver, having been certified in the Columbia University swimming pool in 1975 and doing her check out dives in the almost zero visibility murky waters of Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn. On the other hand, Bill has had a total of 2 days (4 dives total) underwater, getting his certification in Maui just 4 months prior to this excursion. While he was looking forward to discovering “inner space” and exploring what he had heard were some of the most beautiful diving experiences to be had, his recent hours of studying and instruction had taught him that there were a lot of details that one needed to execute in a very precise manner lest one ends up permanently debilitated or possibly dead. All the same, with his newly minted PADI card, he put his best flipper forward.

Meanwhile, Bill is still trying to equalize without much success.

The islands are very pretty with sweeping and breathtaking views of the archipelago. They all look similar with dense green vegetation climbing down their hills to the many beaches. Their harbors are filled with yachts, and the towns range in size from tiny burgs with a few bars and souvenir shops, to larger settlements with roads, gas stations, and private airports which mostly serve the tourists who seem to make up the lion's share of their economy.

After a sweaty hike, we all make it to the top of one of the islands with a great view.

This is very much a tropical climate, especially in July, when a hike on land can leave you drenched in sweat after only a few minutes. But on the catamaran, the weather is warm and breezy and a whole lot easier to handle. When in motion, the wind keeps everything comfortable, the hottest time of the day being when we are moored in the mid-afternoon. That's when a dip in the water is required to cool down your body temperature. The water is so warm that it does not require any bracing or suspension of disbelief before jumping in, and a minute or two of submersion will keep you feeling good for the next hour.

But the real reason to visit British Virgin Islands (or “BVI” as the locals say) is for the diving. Under the sea is definitely the highlight of any trip here. The first day out, we were excited to get our gear, and before we knew it, we were on the little shuttle boat headed to our first dive spot -- no need for certification checks, records, or dive plans, just get in the boat and go.

Bill still trying to equalize. Still not having much luck.

For Bill the initial experience consists of brief and fleeting glimpses of beauty amongst a whirlwind of concerns revolving around buoyancy, ear pressure, his leaky mask, breathing technique, checking the gear, trying to remember where each piece of equipment is, minimizing exertion, avoiding coral, compensating for current, keeping up with the group, and at least 20 other things that could potentially induce terror including having his lungs explode. For Ellen, it is the sensation of suddenly being dropped into a magical paradise, floating through dive spots with names like "The Aquarium", “Painted Walls”, “Coral Gardens” and "Alice in Wonderland" which are totally apt.

Finally, ears are comfortable and off to explore.

Our skipper hunts Lionfish on our dives, thus helping to rid the area of a coral-wrecking invasive species while providing a very tasty supper.

As usual, Ellen is perfectly at home under the sea.

Our amateur underwater photographs don’t do justice to this magical world below bursting with abundant sea creatures of all shapes, colors and sizes and with corals splattered with neon splashes of color.